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9/10/2015 10:13:55 PM
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Several timepieces are closely associated with automobile racing, perhaps non-e more closely than the Heuer Monaco. Steve McQueen made the watch famous when he wore it in the 1971 film Le Mans. To play the role of driver Michael Delaney, McQueen sought advice from his friend and racing driver, Jo Siffert. In the film, McQueen wore Siffert’s driving suit, which carried the “Chronograph Heuer” logo. When it came time to chose his watch for the role, McQueen went with the Monaco, and the rest is history. Today, the model 1133 carries the collector nickname “McQueen Monaco.”

After taking control of the company that bears his name in 1962, Jack Heuer led it until the acquisition by TAG Group in 1985, after which when he left to join the electronic industry. Jack’s stewardship encompassed the years that put the brand on the map. Among other things, he oversaw the Carrera development and launch and the Calibre 11 development program. He was there when Steve McQueen donned the Monaco for the film Le Mans. He presided over Heuer between 1971 to 1979, when the company served as the official timer for Formula 1 racing. (N.B. The Heuer logo is seen often in the recent feature film Rush, which chronicles the epic 1976 battle between drivers James Hunt and Niki Lauda.)

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In 2001, Jack Heuer returned to the company bearing his family‘s name as Honorary Chairman, and following his return, TAG Heuer again reached new heights. We’ll discuss a few of the notable achievements below.

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Here is an example for a more practical interpretation of these mind-boggling figures. If a company buys an ébauche for 100 francs it then has to finish the movement, manufacture or buy the case, the dial, the strap, spend on marketing, develop and maintain the distribution system, finance research and development - and the list goes on and on. The point is that all of these expenses are to be amortized and hence are added to the cost of purchasing a blank movement. Ultimately all these expenses and the company's profit margin sets the export price of the finished watch. Going from a 100 franc ébauche to a 1000 franc export price is easy!
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Okay, so ETA sold 0.767 billion francs worth of parts, ébauches and movements to non-Swatch companies. These companies then exported 7.5 billion francs worth of watches. This still gives us that previously mentioned 10% level, and considering all those different costs we just mentioned above, it is safe to say that during the late '90s and early 2000s, the entire industry relied more or less on ETA.
It seems then that everything was perfect in ETA-world. However... it was this extreme extent of centralization that soon became one of the greatest problems for Nicolas Hayek and the group itself. While this excessive re-structuring undoubtedly helped them to recover and gain momentum, ETA's significance within the industry soon proved to be much, much too large - and by the time they realized this, it was already too late. You'd have every reason to think that such a dominant position is a good thing, but it actually is something against which the Swatch Group has been fighting for more than a decade now. Here's why.

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Richard Mille RM 069 replica So far so good, except there’s just one problem, how do you make sure the rate of energy delivered as the spring unwinds remains constant? The simple answer is that you can’t, at least not when using a traditional lever escapement as most mechanical watches do. Like anything that is tightly wound, the mainspring is bursting to unwind as soon as it given the chance, thus delivering a strong wave of energy at the beginning of the cycle. Inevitably though the rate of energy delivered to the balance wheel will at some point begin to slow. Now, admittedly the effect of this is almost imperceptible, with a degree of ‘balancing-out’ naturally occurring, and so most people are willing to tolerate a +/- 5 second difference.Well, unlike previous solutions, which found ways to better regulate the flow of energy from the mainspring (i.e. making it slightly more linear), the team at GP developed a way to make it absolutely linear. That means there is no drop in amplitude over time, regardless of the remaining energy in the barrel. To do this, they re-envisioned how an escapement should look and work, which included placing a remarkably thin (6x thinner than a human hair), vibrating silicon blade right through its central axis. The science behind it is probably a bit technical for a watch review but essentially this blade is able to store energy up to a certain threshold before snapping back in the opposing direction, pushing the balance wheel forward, counteracting the variable energy of the barrel and releasing the same amount of energy simultaneously.

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